Ok story so far, I have been here 17 days, I wake up open my door and look at a perfect A frame wave that peels both directions, this is usually 5.30 am, I make a decision whether to go and surf or go back to bed at this point. It is usually bed. We had big hollow waves for the first three days, I took some good photos with my underwater housing day 2. However on day 3 I rushed into the sea, didnt check my o ring seal and when I was halfway swimming accross the lagoon I noticed the housing had filled up with water due to a kink in the o ring. Boom £5 grand camera body Kaputt!! but worst off all I do not have a camera and still have a housing so no surf shots…. Camera insured so its on its way back to England.
Day 3 in the afternoon surfboard snaps in two pieces at a heavy hollow wave called Periscopes so a pretty expensive start to my trip.
I have borrowed a surfboard from Joss Ash for two weeks but he has left. I had mine repaired 3 days ago but it snapped into 2 pieces when a heavy wave landed on it today. Luckily only my board broke this wave felt like it was trying to pull my arms and legs from their sockets when it landed on me.
Still in one piece I am still healthy and surfed some of the biggest waves of the afternoon and learnt to do sweeping cutbacks for the first time at fullspeed so I am pleased.
I have met some really wonderful people since i have been here, Grishka Roberts is one of them, more on him later, he is an absolute legend and I have been blessed with his company for the last ten days but he left yesterday.
Life is good full of challenges especially the internet, the posh hotel down the beach called The Aman Gati has a dial up connection for about £7 an hour and it takes that long to download your email, so i will keep this brief until I am back in Bali.
If you are reading this thanks for doing so I will be putting up lots of great content when I can in about two weeks. Until then I will try and stay healthy avoid Malaria which is common place here and continue to learn how to surf. Tomorrow I hopefully will be filming some of the visiting pros here at the moment from Bali and Mick Fanning from Australia next week or so…
All is Good God Bless!!